Great Barrier Reef

We are just back from three days out on the beautiful Great Barrier Reef.  We got a really good deal on a liveaboard boat that went from Cairns out to the outer reef, approx 70 km offshore.  All up we did nine dives over the three days at three different reefs.  Our favourite reef and the one that we did the most diving at was called Milln Reef.  The dives were generally around large bommies, which bottomed out around 25 m and then rose almost to the surface.  On many dives, the fish would congregate around the top of the bommies, which made our safety stops (3 mins at 5 m before going up) very entertaining.  We were also lucky enough to see whales from the boat. 

Trying to describe the dives and the creatures we saw would not really do the GBR justice, so I have loaded a selection of my underwater photos on to flikr.  A few quick highlights included seeing a friendly Hump-headed Maori Wrasse, a Bulbo metapon (hump headed parrot fish) and his feeding scars, a massive giant clam and some sleeping White Tip Reef Sharks. 

Tomorrow we begin our push for The Tip.  The first stop is the Daintree and then the wilds of Cape York.  Consequently, blog updates may be few and far between for the next three weeks.

Click here for GBR diving photos

Tville to Cairns

We have spent the last week migrating further north from Townsville to Cairns.  Our time in Townsville was very enjoyable, catching up with old friends and visiting some of my favourite places.  For those that have spent time in T’ville, you will be pleased to know that the JCU crowd are wonderful (as always), the beer at The Brewery is still cold and refreshing, and the coffee at Coffee Dominion is still of the best quality. 

After tearing ourselves away from social activities we headed north, stopping at Paluma, Wallaman Falls and Mission Beach on the way to Cairns.  Unfortunately, with the wet season not very far off, we had to pick the top couple of stops along the T’ville – Cairns route and have decided to come back to the others at another point in the future.  This said, we did catch up with our old family friend Steve at Mission Beach and very nearly didn’t leave this idyllic spot.

At all of the above locations, we were shocked by the damage that Cyclone Yasi has inflicted.  Many of the walking tracks in the national parks are still closed due to tree falls and landslips, and there is evidence everywhere of large trees that were blown over and hillsides that were obviously totally denuded of vegetation and that are only now starting to regain some foliage.  I tried to capture some of this in the photos (on flikr), but really, you need to see it to believe it. 

The bird list is growing at a phenomenal rate – some days up to five or six new species.  Some of the best spots of late have been Alligator Creek (south of Townsville) and the Townsville Town Common – literally hundreds of Brolgas and thousands of Magpie Geese at this wetland.  Despite the Ivy Tea Cottage closing down, we still managed to hunt down a Victoria’s Riflebird at Paluma (in the wild rather than sharing Devonshire Tea, no less).  So far, no success on the Cassowary front, but we are keeping our eyes pealed and Troopy is taking care along the roads.

We are now in Cairns and heading out on a dive boat first thing tomorrow – 10 dives on the outer reef, with the promise of 23 degree water and 20 m visibility.  Fingers crossed the reefs are in good condition and that the fishies are feeling friendly!  We’re also expecting some humpback whale spotting and Luke is hoping for sea birds. 

There are a few of photos from the last days on flikr, and I’ll post some underwater shots later in the week, when we’re back on dry land.  Also check out the big thing page for the latest – The Big Gumboot (Tully) and The Big Cassowary (Mission Beach).  The shot below is from Troopy’s sticker board – she’s been collecting stickers from big things and world heritage areas, and as you can see, she’s been getting around!!

Click here for photos on flikr

Bundy to T'ville

We have survived our travels through Qld’s Capricorn Coast and are now back in, what is for me, familiar territory.  Most of the last week has been somewhat hampered by bad flu for both of us, meaning that our adventures have been restricted to car-based activities and very short walks.

After leaving the Qld rum capital (Bundy), we headed for the Town of 1770.  We camped for two days in the nearby Eurimbula NP – a beautiful, secluded spot next to Bustard Beach.  The photo below shows you our taking in of the sunset one night – life is tough!! 

We then headed north to Qld’s beef capital, Rockhampton (and got a bad photo of the Big Bull on the way into town – see big things page).  Being in the beef capital, we felt obligated to have a steak (well I had a steak and Luke a chicken schnitzel), so spent a pleasant evening at the surprisingly atmospheric Criterion Hotel.

After Rocky, it was the long haul up the highway to Mackay (not really a capital of anywhere) and then up into the hinterland to Eungella NP.  Here we went in search of platypus and the Eungella Honeyeater.  Unfortunately, we didn’t find either, but had a couple of short walks through lovely rainforest and a fun 4WDing adventure in the adjacent state forest – see photo of Troopy’s first real creek crossing on flikr.  From Eungella, we headed to Townsville (capital of north Qld), with a night stopover in Proserpine and the obligatory photo at the Big Mango in Bowen.

We spent the first night in T’ville at good old Alligator Creek – for those that don’t know, this is the local swimming hole for Townsvillians to escape the summer heat.  It was the most peaceful and enjoyable time I have spent there – lots to be said for mid-week trips in winter!  Our night at Alligator Creek night also happened to be census night and I was worried we weren’t going to be counted (Luke was less perturbed).  But, luckily, the authorities were on to things and the ranger came around with census forms and so we, and Troopy, got counted!  Now we are off to catch up with old friends at my old local, The Brewery – good times!!

We haven’t taken that many photos (feeling too poorly really), but some ok shots are on flikr.  Click here for photos on flikr

Back on the road with Troopy - Fraser Is

We finally managed to leave Bris-vegas, leaving Mum to regain her peace and quiet.  We headed straight to Rainbow Beach, the launching pad for Fraser Island.  We went via two big things – the Big Pineapple, perhaps Qld’s most famous big thing, and the Big Matilda, the winking kangaroo from the 1982 Commonwealth Games now residing at a petrol station outside Gympie!  Much to our horror, the Big Pineapple is has closed down and is now all but a derelict shell of its once grand self!!  Photos are on the Big Thing page!!

We arrived there later in the afternoon and decided to overnight on the mainland before heading over.  We found a nearby free campground called Poverty Point.  Based on the name, we weren’t expecting much, but were delighted to find a perfectly tranquil spot nestled into a calm bay with a lovely outlook for sunset (see photos).  It was the best first night to be back in Troops!

The next day we made the crossing to Fraser Is and Troopy was excited that she was in 4WD and not to come out for another four days.  After an uneventful ferry crossing we barrelled down the beach (with all the other bogans!) and then headed inland for some exploring.  We were intending to do a scenic drive via some of the lakes, but Troops had other ideas and missed the turn off.  When we ended up on the western side of the island without seeing any lakes, it was much to our surprise!  We’d intended to venture over there at some point, so we had some lunch and a twitch and then pressed on to the campsite at Central Station.  The campground was set in amongst the old logging area and was full of really tall Tallowwoods and Kauri Pines.

The next couple of days we spent touring around, checking out the beach, lakes, Eli Creek, the Pinnacles and the Maheno Wreck (see photos).  I braved a swim in Eli Creek, which was chilly but crystal clear and really lovely.  At a couple of points I had to manoeuvre over some sandbars and got beached az!  We spent one more night at Central Station and another at Dundubara, which was set back in the dunes amongst the paperbarks.

Troopy’s 4WD’ing was excellent, apart from a slight bogging when I was trying to drive up a hill and had to pull over into the soft edge to let another car passed.  It wasn’t my finest moment, but luckily Luke came to the rescue!

Our nature watching was also really great – our bird list for the island was over 50 species, including some new ones for the master list (highlights being Red Backed Fairy Wren, Scarlet Honeyeater and an Owlet Nightjar that we flushed one morning).  We also saw some whales breaching and carrying on a few hundred metres offshore.  We had a couple of goanna experiences – one in the campground and one when Troopy nearly squished one.  We only spotted one dingo, which was wearing a radio collar.  Apparently it’s pupping season at the moment, so we suspect that the dingos were off in the bush away from pesky humans.

Overall, Fraser Is was a great start to the second major leg of our Troopy adventures.  We are currently in Bundaberg doing some jobs and drinking ginger beer (we are on alcohol detox from Europe, so that has saved us from the bundy and cokes).  Heading further into the deep north tomorrow.

Troopy on the beach at Fraser below and for more photos click here